Service Options

Full Bespoke, Semi-Bespoke and Made to Measure Service

Tailor measuring a customer
Style Consultation
For new customers, the process begins with a consultation with Joey Dimz or one our technician/cutters, whose role is to create the unique pattern for each garment. Our experts need to know about the customer’s lifestyle, the purpose of the garment, seasonal climate, and what unique details they would like to include in the garment. At the first meeting, up to over 30 body measurements are taken so that the cutter can fashion a garment that will accentuate the best parts of a customer’s frame.
​​Cloth options will be discussed. We keep examples of over 30 thousand fine cloths and will advise customers on their relative merits and the appropriateness of their use for different garments and different situations. In addition, hundreds of linings, buttons and trimmings can be considered so that each garment will be unique to the customer and as perfect as it can be.

First Option:

Full Bespoke

A Tailor making suit patterns
Once the cutter has the measurements and information on style, cloths and ascertained any sloped or square shoulders, pronounced chests and curved backs, they will then translate these figures to paper. The process is called drafting a pattern, which is a two-dimensional illustration of the jacket and trousers. The result is a set of patterns unique to each client. Adjustments will be applied and noted as the client’s proportions change over time. 

The garments are temporarily stitched together using basting thread, which is a thick white thread that breaks easily. Linings and pockets are not installed at this stage to allow the cutter to see how the garment fits.
During the first fitting, both cutter and customer will discuss and explore all opportunities for improvement. Final style cuts and details are then marked and noted. The cutter may even see aspects that can be changed to improve the fit. This is the very essence of bespoke tailoring; an opportunity to continue the conversation on a personal level and reflect any changes where needed.
A tailor fitting a client for a new suit
The garment's major parts are taken apart and smoothed out. Any adjustments are transferred to the customer’s pattern.
 
Depending on how well the first fitting went, the next fitting stage can either be three-quarters constructed as something called a "forward", or as a "finish-bar-finish" or a "finish". 
A "forward" is another word for a second fitting. The garment is largely constructed for wear, but collar and sleeves are temporarily sewn with a basting thread; linings and facings are included. This would then come back to the customer to try once more to ensure both cutter and customer are happy with it.
 
A "finish bar finish" is where the garment is made without the use of basting thread. The garment is properly sewn together using traditional tailoring methods for wear. There are no buttons at this stage, zips or buttons on trousers etc.
Man in his second suit fitting
Any remaining basting thread and chalk marks are removed, linings and edges are hand stitched, button holes and buttons are included, and it is then professionally pressed.
 
For regular customers, the number of fittings is reduced as his or her individual pattern will have been kept and their characteristics and likes will be known. 

Second Option:

Semi-Bespoke

Man in a pinstripe suit
Semi-bespoke is the next economical option after full bespoke suits. It has all the same design flexibility and requires the same amount of measurements as full bespoke. For this service level, patterns are also made from scratch individually for each customer.

The noticeable difference between the two is the amount of fitting in making the garment. Semi-bespoke garment doesn't go through basted fitting stage.

After indivual patterns are made, the cloth is cut, and the garment goes straight to sewing and finishing. Just like full bespoke, full canvas and handcrafted finishing details are applied on the garment.


Since this service level requires half the time to make compared to full bespoke, the price for a 2 piece semi-bespoke is a popular choice for most customers.


Third Option:

Made to Measure

Gerber Made to Measure program
This service level is based on pre-made set pattern blocks. Though MTM suits have similar customization options as full bespoke and semi-bespoke in terms of cloth selection, linings, buttons, threads, etc., the actual designs are pre-set and cannot be modified. 

​Measurements are taken during the inital meeting and are used to modify pre-existing patterns. Each garment go straight to sewing and finishing once the patterns are generated using a CAD system.

Since patterns for this service are only modified and not drafted from scratch, the tolerance to accommodate extreme body proportions is relatively narrower compared to full and semi-bespoke garments.

Customers also have the options to select from fused fronts, half canvas or full canvas contruction.

Since this service level is fully machine-made, it is the the most ideal option for customers on limited budget.

Trade experts.

Most menswear retailers and stylists use the word "bespoke" losely. But how logical is it to go to a legitimate bespoke tailor for suits?

Just like getting a haircut, you will go through few barbers before you settle to one that you feel most comfortable with and knows your style. Finding the right bespoke tailor is no different.​​ 


For the same reason you couldn't expect a hairstyle blogger to cut your hair as well as your barber (unless the blogger is an experienced barber himself), true bespoke tailoring requires a touch of experience.​

Taking measurements is not as simple as just putting a tape measure around a person. Like pattern cutting, fitting and execution, it's a technical skill that requires years of practice to master.